This is a soup that my mother made regularly, and one that remains popular in the repertoire of Jewish cooks today.
It is a delicious hearty soup that incorporates some kind of beef (usually still on the bone such as short ribs or beef back ribs). However, it can be made vegetarian by simply omitting the beef and using a vegetable stock.
The other essential ingredients are cabbage, onions, tomatoes in some form, either chopped canned whole tomatoes, tomato sauce, crushed tomatoes or tomato puree.
Some kind of broth or stock, preferably beef, is added. To achieve the sweet and sour flavor most recipes will call for a balance between sugar and lemon juice. In many recipes you will find a teaspoon of sour salt (a form of citric acid sold for culinary use) is called for.
The flavor is reminiscent of Sweet-And-Sour Stuffed Cabbage, but with a lot less work.
I adapted a recipe from Joan Nathan for this soup. It is an easy, inexpensive soup to make, and one that will leave you feeling very satisfied. As soon as my pot of soup was ready, I downed two bowls of it, savoring the smells and tastes of yet one more dish I remember from my youth.
Sweet-And-Sour Cabbage Soup
(adapted from The Jewish Holiday Kitchen, Joan Nathan )
2 to 2 and ½ pounds small beef back ribs
1 quart beef broth or stock
1 quart water
2 medium onions, diced
3 carrots, sliced
1 -28 ounce can San Marzano whole tomatoes, chopped finely with their juices
1 cup tomato sauce or the remaining sauce from the can of tomatoes
2 pounds cabbage, sliced
1 teaspoon sour salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
4 to 5 tablespoons sugar (white or brown, or a combination)
juice of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons golden or dark raisins
Kosher salt to taste
1. Combine the beef ribs, broth, and water in a large soup pot. Bring to a boil over moderate heat and skim off the residue for at least 5 minutes or until all is removed. Add the onions, tomatoes, tomato sauce, cabbage, carrots, sour salt, black pepper, sugar and lemon juice.
2. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, then cover and simmer 2 to 3 hours, until the meat is very tender. Stir in the raisins, partially cover with the lid, and simmer 20 minutes more. Taste, correct the seasoning, adding additional salt and pepper if needed as well as more sugar or lemon juice if necessary to achieve the balance of sweet and sour.
3. Chill in refrigerator overnight, and skim all the fat from the top before reheating the soup. Remove the bones and cut the meat into bite-size pieces and add back to the soup.
4. Serve the soup with a couple of slices of rye or pumpernickel bread.