When you can open an eight hundred and seventy-seven page hard bound cookbook automatically to the page that holds the recipe for your favorite meat loaf, it’s a good bet you’ve been to that page many, many times before. This is the case with my copy of James Beard’s American Cookery, and his recipe for Favorite Meat Loaf on page 309.
Although he has several different versions of meat loaves, this is the one I always make. Here are some of his thoughts on meat loaf…“A good meat loaf is similar to a country pate. It should be highly seasoned and firm but not dry. It is much better eaten cold, when it slices nicely and holds its shape. It should have a pleasant texture and never be grainy. It may be served hot with a good tomato sauce, a brown sauce with mushrooms, or an onion sauce. When served cold, all it needs is a horseradish sauce or a Cumberland sauce, or merely pickles, relishes, and a good salad. Cold meat loaf also makes a perfect filler for sandwiches, flavored with a touch of mustard or chili sauce. And for picnics it is an ideal dish that packs easily and travels well.”
I have adapted Mr. Beard’s recipe a bit. I prefer using all ground chuck, and I’ve omitted the bacon. I’ve omitted the summer savory since I never seem to have any in my spice drawer, increased the garlic, and have chosen to accentuate the thyme by using fresh thyme as well as dried. The onions, garlic, and thyme are a winning combination as far as I’m concerned. For the dry breadcrumbs I use Japanese panko, crushing it a bit in my hands for a finer consistency. And finally I will use either ketchup or chili sauce or a combination as a glaze baked onto the loaf. For me, ketchup and meat loaf is a match made in heaven. So I will always serve some on the side as well. We will usually have this meat loaf warm for dinner the day I make it, and finish it off the next day in sandwiches.
Favorite Meat Loaf (adapted from James Beard’s American Cookery)
3 pounds ground chuck
5 cloves ( about 2 teaspoons) fresh garlic, finely chopped or minced
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 and ½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons fresh thyme, leaves only
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ cup Japanese panko (bread crumbs), crushed to a fine consistency
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
½ to ¾ cup ketchup or chili sauce
Thoroughly blend the meat, garlic, onion, seasonings, and crumbs. Add the eggs, and blend again. Using clean hands to mix instead of a utensil allows you to blend without overworking the meat.
Spoon the meat into a 9 by 5 loaf pan, pressing gently to fill the corners. Spread the ketchup or chili sauce over the top of the loaf, and bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 1 to 1 and ½ hours, until browned on top.
Note: It is always advisable to check, if the internal temperature of the meat loaf is above 160 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature ensures that, all the possible germs in the meat are eliminated and the meat is properly cooked. It is also better to trust your judgment, instead of the timer. Take out the meatloaf after it’s outer surface starts turning golden-brown. Before taking it out of the oven you may also poke it with a knife or spoon, and check if the meat has been done properly or not. As many chefs say, meatloaf cooking time, is not to be timed with a clock. It is to be felt with the smell, touch and sight.
Years ago I purchased a specialized pan for baking meatloaf from a gourmet kitchen shop where I worked. Although I am usually of the opinion that items of that ilk are totally unnecessary I have to say in this case form follows function, and its proven to be a good purchase. It is 2 loaf pans, one with holes in the bottom which fits into the larger solid pan. The excess fat from the meat drips through to the outer pan during baking preventing the meatloaf from absorbing all that fat during the baking that it might otherwise be sitting in.
The following is a glaze I haven’t tried yet, but will the next time I make this meat loaf. It is a glaze made by combining ¾ cup ketchup, 3 tablespoons brown sugar, and 3 teaspoons cider vinegar. I think the cider vinegar would add a tanginess that would complement the beef well.
If you’re serving this meat loaf warm with mashed potatoes on the side, a good brown gravy, or mushroom gravy is always delicious.