The James Beard Celebration Cookbook is a collaborative effort of The James Beard Foundation and his many friends. Sadly, he died before being able to complete the book.
Nonetheless, the book was completed and has served as a gesture of love as well as a fund-raising activity for The James Beard Foundation. It is full of recipes that he liked or would have liked, some uncollected material of his own, and the warm and funny memories of his many diverse friends.
This recipe for Grilled Salmon With Herb Blossom Butter can be found on page 177 of The James Beard Celebration Cookbook. It comes from Alice Waters, the well known chef and owner of Chez Panisse, the famous restaurant in Berkley, California.
I was quite fortunate to dine there for lunch a couple of years ago while visiting my son in San Francisco.
Here is an excerpt from the book as told by Barbara Kafka…
Alice Waters. James really loved Alice Water’s restaurant, Chez Panisse, in Berkeley. It was the first place he took me to eat in San Francisco. Like a child with a napkin smoothed over his impressive front, he would settle himself at the table happily awaiting Alice’s surprises. Her way with salmon here certainly would have pleased him.
Alice has a large charcoal grill in her kitchen that she often tends herself, but on nights when the load is heavy, she has been known to make another fire out of doors just outside the kitchen door.
Here, salmon is served with a delicately flavored butter, perfect to make in spring or early summer when the herb garden is in bloom and at its prettiest. A scattering of small petals from edible flowers, such as borage, calendula, nasturtium, viola, and roquette, over the fish makes a romantic and fanciful garnish.
Grilled Salmon With Herb Blossom Butter (adapted from Alice Waters)
Serves 4 as a first course, 2 as a main course
For the Herb Blossom Butter
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons diced shallots (I used red spring onions)
10 to 12 chives, finely cut
4 or 5 sprigs fresh chervil, finely chopped (I used fresh tarragon)
1 tablespoon fresh basil, cut into ribbons
Kosher salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 to 4 tablespoons herb blossoms, larger blossoms pulled into petals and lightly chopped (use such blossoms as roquette, thyme, sage, marjoram, savory, borage, calendula, nasturtium, and viola)
1 to 1 and ½ pounds salmon fillet in one piece, preferably from the upper, collar section of the fish, rather than the tail end or four 5-to 6-ounce salmon fillets
Olive oil, to oil grill
Kosher salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
A small handful of petals from the same flowers as above, petals left whole if small, for garnish
Prepare a charcoal fire or light a gas grill.
Make the Herb Blossom Butter:
Stir the shallots, chives, chervil, and basil into the soft butter. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Add the herb blossoms and blend well.
Set this Herb blossom butter aside at room temperature until you are ready to serve the fish.
If using a large fillet, cut it into eight slices of even thickness, holding the knife at a 45 degree angle to the fillet.
Brush each slice or individual fillet with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper.
Lightly oil the charcoal grill or gas grill.
Cook the salmon for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until just barely cooked; what you want is a dark pink, moist center.
Transfer fish to warmed dinner plates, and spread each slice with a generous tablespoon of Herb Blossom Butter. Scatter petals over fish.
I served this delicious salmon with roasted golden beets, red new potatoes, and crisp steamed green beans all fresh from the farmer’s market. The herbs came from my herb garden right outside the kitchen door. This is a great summer meal!