It’s autumn and that means the farm stands and grocery bins are overflowing with the season’s bounty of apples…there are numerous varieties available and all at their peak flavor.
When our boys were young and we were living in Chicago we took them apple picking at the local orchard every fall. We went with a group of friends, who like us, found themselves transplanted in the mid-west from the east coast raising their young children.
We became family as well as friends celebrating holidays and birthdays together and enjoying such annual outings as pumpkin, apple and strawberry picking with the kids.
It was a good time for all, and through the years we’ve spoken of the fond memories we all still hold of our apple picking days.
One of the things I loved most about bringing home all those apples (or strawberries, depending on the season) was using them up. And that meant apple pie, apple cake, apple sauce, caramel apples, apple crisp… I could go on, but let’s stop at the apple crisp because I have found the most delicious and ingenious recipe for Skillet Apple Crisp in the September, 2010 issue of Cook’s Illustrated magazine.
I’ve adapted the recipe a bit. I replaced walnuts for the pecans, my favorite Stayman* apples for the Golden Delicious variety, half of the white flour with white whole wheat flour,and some fresh nutmeg for the optional cinnamon called for in the recipe.
*Stayman is an all-purpose apple. Its rich, sweet-tart flavor makes it a good eating apple. Stayman’s firm texture holds its shape when cooked, making it excellent for cooking and baking.
What I love about Cook’s Illustrated is that they take a popular basic recipe, analyze any potential flaws in the ingredients or technique and arrive at a solution that turns a decent dish into a great one! (check out my previous post on their Ultimate Banana Bread)
Here is how they turned an ordinary apple crisp into an extraordinary apple crisp…
3 Steps To Great Apple Crisp
Traditional apple crisp is never terrible, but it’s often flawed by unevenly cooked apples and a topping more mushy than crisp.
1. Create Apple Concentrate
Reducing cider and adding it to the filling concentrates the fruity flavor, even when apples are out of season.
2. Create Caramelized Apples
Sauteing sugared apples in butter contributes caramelized flavor and allows for stirring, so slices turn out evenly cooked.
3. Transfer To Oven
Just 15 minutes at 450 degrees browns the topping without overcooking the apples and keeps the topping from turning mushy.
And now…the recipe…
Skillet Apple Crisp (adapted from Cook’s Illustrated, September, 2010)
Topping
¾ cup unbleached all-purpose flour, or (half white flour and half white whole wheat flour measuring ¾ cup)
¾ cup pecans, chopped fine (I used walnuts)
¾ cup old-fashioned rolled oats
½ cup packed light brown sugar
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon table salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
Filling
3 pounds Golden Delicious apples (about 7 medium), peeled, cored, halved, and cut into ½-inch-thick wedges (I used 4 large Stayman apples)
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional) (I used 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg)
1 cup apple cider
2 teaspoons juice from 1 lemon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Instructions
1. For The Topping: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Combine flour, pecans or walnuts, oats, brown sugar, granulated sugar, cinnamon, and salt in medium bowl. Stir in butter until mixture is thoroughly moistened and crumbly. Set aside while preparing fruit filling.
2. For The Filling: Toss apples, granulated sugar, and cinnamon (if using) or nutmeg together in large bowl; set aside.
Bring cider to simmer in 12-inch ovensafe skillet over medium heat; cook until reduced to ½ cup, about 5 minutes. Transfer reduced cider to bowl or measuring cup; stir in lemon juice and set aside.
3. Heat butter in now-empty skillet over medium heat. When foaming subsides, add apple mixture and cook, stirring frequently, until apples begin to soften and become translucent, 12 to 14 minutes. (Do not fully cook apples.)
Remove pan from heat and gently stir in cider mixture until apples are coated.
4. Sprinkle topping evenly over fruit, breaking up any large chunks.
Place skillet on baking sheet and bake until fruit is tender and topping is deep golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool on wire rack until warm, at least 15 minutes, and serve.
